General manager Drew Bossler handles what must be an ongoing frustration with aplomb. While the construction might make potential new customers think twice about coming downtown, regulars have continued to stream in steadily. “We haven’t suffered too badly because of it,” Bossler says. “The city planners have done a fantastic job with routing the direction of traffic. It is truly pretty easy to get around the street.”

If nothing else, the diorama of dust and occasional glimpse of a workman’s backside crack gives diners a good reason to focus on the aesthetics of their fine meal choice. One of those visually appealing dishes, and the top of the pops among the steaks, is the ribeye “au poivre.” A tower of quality comfort food, the dish features a 16-ounce boneless Delmonico-cut steak, nestled atop a bed of asiago mashed potatoes and topped with hearty slices of portabella tempura.

The “au poivre” refers to a specific preparation technique. “It’s a traditional French preparation, rolled in coarsely cracked peppercorns,” Bossler says, proclaiming, “It’s a heck of a steak.”

Like the menus at its sister restaurants, Tavern on the Square, East Lansing’s The Post and the Grand Woods Lounge in Grand Rapids, the menu at Troppo was created by executive chef Jason Keusch. Each of the restaurant group’s establishments has its own unique menu.

Bossler classifies Troppo as an American bistro that delves into the “contemporary, eclectic side of things.”

“We draw out what we find to be some of the best culturally influenced spins on dishes,” Bossler says.

Succinctly put, diners can “really go after the protein of your choice, and see it done in a number of ways.”

Bossler himself is the boss of the beverage program. The wines are carefully selected to accentuate the food, and staff members are all trained to understand and recommend appropriate pairings. Customers who prefer their grapes to be served in a martini glass can also be accommodated; among the fifteen martinis offered at Troppo is the addictive White Crush — a sweet mix of vodka, elderflower and white grape.

While there is a clientele who come in for the specialty drinks, Bossler expects more.  The impact of the construction creeps in again as he notes, “That’s what we look forward to most of all next summer, giving people some great scenery out on the patio so they can enjoy drinks out there.”

While the ribeye is tops, it’s lunch at Troppo that really hops. “The lunch is fantastic,” Bossler boasts. “We can move fast enough to accommodate people on limited time frames.”

Lunch choices include unique sandwiches and salads, such as the signature Troppo salad, resplendent with roasted walnuts, crumbled Gorgonzola and fresh sliced pears and avocado.

Those in a big rush can opt for the daily “Blue Plate Special.” Informally described by Bossler as “chef’s inspiration,” these are dishes that can be prepared in batches and typically fall into the comfort food category, such as smash hits like beef stroganoff and cheeseburger casserole.

Troppo first opened in East Lansing in 2001. Four years later the restaurant was relocated to downtown Lansing in the former U.S. Bank building. The location was renovated to create an intimate restaurant space, three private rooms and an elevated bar. The upscale and elegant décor features wood, gold and maroon accents, with a particularly cozy-looking semi-circle booth that features cushy pillows. 

While the restaurant is designed to be upscale, Bossler makes clear that everyone is welcome, and that there is “never a dress code.”

“We want people to be comfortable here,” he says. “You can get in at any price level here. We have a huge respect for the value of the dollar.”

Another important aspect of existing in downtown Lansing is to be active and involved with the community.

“We try to support the businesses in the areas where we’re invested,” Bossler says. “We do a lot with Kositchek’s, Lansing Art Gallery and St. John’s Parish in East Lansing.”

As Troppo approaches its third anniversary as a downtown Lansing fixture, Bossler says some people still walk in the door expecting to find a U.S. Bank. If he has his way, someday the counter service bank customers expected will be replaced with expanded fast lunchtime counter service on the patio. And with some hope, when that expansion happens, diners won’t have to leap a safety fence to get there.  

Troppo
101 S. Washington Square, Lansing
Monday-Tuesday:
11 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Wednesday - Friday 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.
Saturday: 4 p.m. – 11 p.m.
(517) 371-4000